The Aftermarket Assassins Clutch Kit: A Comprehensive Guide to Installation, Performance, and Long-Term Reliability
For performance enthusiasts and daily drivers facing a failing factory clutch, the Aftermarket Assassins clutch kit presents a compelling, high-value solution. This in-depth guide will conclusively show that this kit is a well-engineered, complete package designed for direct replacement and significant durability upgrades over stock components in many popular vehicles. We will move beyond marketing claims to provide a factual, detailed analysis of what the kit includes, the vehicles it suits, a step-by-step installation walkthrough, critical break-in procedures, and long-term maintenance advice. The goal is to furnish you with all the practical knowledge needed to make an informed purchase decision and ensure a successful, reliable installation that meets your driving demands.
Understanding the Clutch System and the Role of an Aftermarket Kit
Before examining the specific kit, a clear understanding of the clutch system's function is essential. The clutch is the mechanical link between your engine's power and your transmission. It allows you to disconnect the engine from the wheels to change gears and smoothly reconnect them. A standard clutch assembly consists of three main components.
- The Flywheel: Bolted directly to the engine's crankshaft, it provides a large, machined friction surface and significant rotational mass to smooth out engine pulses.
- The Clutch Disc (or Friction Disc): Sandwiched between the flywheel and pressure plate. Its friction material faces grip these surfaces. The disc's hub splines onto the transmission's input shaft, transferring power when engaged.
- The Pressure Plate: Bolted to the flywheel, it uses a diaphragm spring or coil springs to clamp the clutch disc against the flywheel with immense force. Depressing the clutch pedal disengages this clamping force.
A factory clutch is designed for a balance of comfort, cost, and adequate durability for typical use. An Aftermarket Assassins clutch kit typically aims to improve upon the stock unit in one or more key areas: increased torque capacity, more aggressive friction material for better bite, a revised pressure plate for higher clamp load, and the inclusion of all necessary ancillary parts for a complete job.
What's Inside the Box: Component Breakdown of a Typical Aftermarket Assassins Kit
A key advantage of a reputable kit like this is its completeness. A full kit should contain every wearable component needed for the job, eliminating guesswork and multiple parts orders.
The Clutch Disc: This is the heart of the upgrade. Aftermarket Assassins kits often use a segmented, organic, or ceramic friction material composition that offers a higher coefficient of friction than stock. This provides a stronger, more immediate grip, reducing slippage under load. The disc may also feature upgraded marcel springs (cushioning springs) or damper springs to manage driveline shock.
The Pressure Plate: This component is crucial for holding power. The kit's pressure plate is matched to the disc and typically has a higher clamp load than the factory unit. This means it squeezes the disc against the flywheel with more force, increasing the system's overall torque capacity before slippage occurs. It is a direct bolt-on replacement for the OE part.
The Release Bearing (Throw-Out Bearing): This is a new, high-quality bearing. It is critical, as the old bearing should never be reused. When you press the clutch pedal, the release bearing moves forward and presses against the fingers of the diaphragm spring in the pressure plate, disengaging the clutch.
The Pilot Bearing or Bushing: Located in the center of the crankshaft or flywheel, this small bearing or bushing supports the tip of the transmission's input shaft. It is a cheap part but a common failure point that causes noise and difficulty shifting if neglected. A proper kit always includes a new one.
Alignment Tool: A plastic or metal tool that mimics the transmission input shaft. It is used to centrally align the clutch disc during installation before bolting on the pressure plate, ensuring the transmission will slide into place later.
Potential Additional Items: Some kits may also include a new clutch fork, pivot ball, or even a slave cylinder if it is a concentric design common in modern vehicles. Always verify the kit contents against your vehicle's specific needs.
Vehicle Compatibility and Use-Case Scenarios
The Aftermarket Assassins clutch kit is not a universal part. It is engineered for specific makes, models, and engine types. Common applications include popular performance platforms like the Ford Mustang (especially V8 models), Chevrolet Camaro, Dodge Challenger/Charger, Subaru WRX/STI, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution, and various Nissan and Toyota sport compacts. Before purchasing, you must triple-check the exact kit part number against your vehicle's year, engine, and transmission code.
This kit is ideal for several specific situations.
- Direct OEM Replacement with Enhanced Durability: For a daily-driven vehicle with a worn-out stock clutch, this kit is a superior "while you're in there" upgrade. It offers better longevity and resistance to heat without drastically altering driving feel.
- Moderately Modified Street Vehicles: If your car has common bolt-on modifications like an intake, exhaust, and tune that increase engine torque, the stock clutch becomes the weak link. This kit provides the necessary increased torque capacity to handle the extra power reliably.
- Spirited Driving and Occasional Track Use: For drivers who participate in autocross, canyon runs, or occasional track days, the kit's improved friction material and clamp force resist fading under repeated high-load, high-heat conditions better than a stock unit.
It is generally not recommended for vehicles with extreme horsepower levels (e.g., big turbo setups) that require a multi-plate or sintered metallic clutch, or for drivers who prioritize a pedal feel as light as the original at all costs.
Essential Tools and Preparation for the Job
Clutch replacement is a major mechanical job, typically requiring the transmission to be removed. It is labor-intensive but within the scope of a competent DIY mechanic with the right tools and space.
Required Tools include: A complete socket and wrench set, torque wrench (essential), jack and sturdy jack stands, transmission jack (highly recommended), pry bars, screwdrivers, and possibly specialty tools like a clutch line bleeder kit or specific socket for the driveshaft or axle nuts. Always consult a factory service manual for your vehicle for the definitive tool list and fastener torque specifications.
Critical Preparation Steps:
- Source All Parts: Ensure you have the clutch kit, a new flywheel (highly advised) or have your old flywheel professionally resurfaced, new transmission fluid, and possibly a rear main engine seal (another "while you're in there" item).
- Work Space: A level, concrete garage floor is ideal. Allow yourself an entire weekend if this is your first attempt.
- Safety: Chock the wheels, disconnect the battery, and never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use jack stands.
Step-by-Step Installation Procedure: A Methodical Approach
While procedures vary by vehicle, the core process follows a standard sequence. This is an overview; always follow a detailed guide for your specific car.
Phase 1: Drivetrain Disassembly. This involves removing the exhaust components near the transmission, driveshaft or axles, shift linkage, clutch hydraulic lines or cable, electrical connectors (back-up light switch, speed sensor), and any cross-members or braces supporting the transmission. The goal is to isolate the transmission from the car.
Phase 2: Transmission Removal. Supporting the engine from above (with a support bar) or below (with a jack and wood block), unbolt the transmission bellhousing from the engine block. Carefully slide the transmission straight back off the clutch assembly and input shaft, then lower it safely with the transmission jack.
Phase 3: Old Clutch Removal and Surface Preparation. With the transmission out, you now have access to the clutch. Mark the relationship of the pressure plate to the flywheel with a paint pen if it is not already doweled. This helps with balance during reassembly. Unbolt the pressure plate in a star pattern. Remove the old disc and pressure plate. Inspect the flywheel. If it has any scoring, blue spotting (heat damage), or cracking, it must be replaced or professionally resurfaced. Installing a new clutch against a worn flywheel is the single greatest cause of premature failure.
Phase 4: New Clutch Installation. Clean the flywheel mounting surface meticulously. Install the new pilot bearing. Using the supplied alignment tool, place the new clutch disc against the flywheel (correct side facing out—usually "flywheel side" is marked). Hold it in place and install the new pressure plate, threading the bolts finger-tight. Align your earlier marks or use the dowel pins. Torque the pressure plate bolts in a star pattern, in multiple stages, to the factory specification. Do not over-torque. Remove the alignment tool.
Phase 5: Reassembly. This is essentially the reverse of disassembly. Carefully guide the transmission back onto the input shaft, ensuring it slides smoothly through the release bearing and into the pilot bearing. Do not force it. Once the bellhousing is flush with the engine, install and torque the bolts. Reconnect all linkages, lines, wiring, and driveline components. Refill the transmission with the correct fluid. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system thoroughly to remove all air.
The Non-Negotiable Break-In Period
A new clutch requires a careful break-in period to properly mate the friction surfaces. This is not optional. The general rule is 500 miles of gentle, varied driving.
- Avoid full-throttle launches or high-load situations (like climbing steep hills in high gear).
- Do not allow the clutch to slip excessively (e.g., holding the car on a hill with the clutch).
- Shift smoothly and avoid highway cruising at a single RPM for extended periods; vary your speed.
- This process transfers a microscopic layer of friction material onto the flywheel and pressure plate, creating an even, high-friction mating surface for long life and full torque capacity.
Troubleshooting Common Post-Installation Issues
Even with a perfect installation, you may notice some changes or need to address minor issues.
- Heavier Clutch Pedal Feel: A higher clamp load pressure plate often results in a moderately heavier pedal. This is normal.
- Chatter on Engagement: A slight shudder during very low-speed, partial engagement (like reversing up a driveway) can occur with aggressive friction materials. It often diminishes after break-in. If severe, it may indicate a installation error like an unclean flywheel or misalignment.
- Clutch Drag or Difficulty Shifting: This usually points to inadequate hydraulic system bleed, incorrect clutch pedal free-play adjustment, or, in rare cases, a faulty new release bearing.
- Slipping After Break-In: If the clutch slips under power after break-in, the cause is usually a contaminated friction surface (oil leak from rear main seal), a glazed flywheel that was not resurfaced, or a kit that is insufficient for the engine's actual torque output.
Long-Term Maintenance and Maximizing Clutch Life
To ensure your Aftermarket Assassins clutch kit delivers years of reliable service, follow these practices.
- Develop Proper Driving Habits: "Riding" the clutch pedal, resting your foot on it, and performing excessive "clutch dumps" for hard launches generate immense heat and wear.
- Address Drivetrain Leaks Immediately: Any engine oil, transmission fluid, or rear main seal leak can contaminate the clutch disc, leading to rapid, irreparable failure.
- Listen for Noises: A chirping noise when depressing the pedal often indicates a failing release bearing. Address it promptly.
In summary, the Aftermarket Assassins clutch kit is a practical, performance-oriented solution for drivers seeking a durable upgrade over a failing stock unit. Its value lies in its completeness and matched-component engineering. Success hinges entirely on meticulous installation—focusing on flywheel condition, precise torquing, and thorough hydraulic bleeding—followed by a disciplined break-in period. When selected for a compatible vehicle and installed correctly, this kit provides a significant improvement in holding power and longevity, making it a smart investment for the informed enthusiast or discerning daily driver.